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El chef Ryan Bartlow ha abierto Ernesto's, su primera aventura en solitario, un establecimiento que gira en torno a la cocina vasca

Así escribía The New York Times-

Ernesto’s

At 21, Ryan Bartlow took off for Spain, most specifically for San Sebastián in the Basque region. The chef worked at some good restaurants in his hometown, Chicago, after culinary school, and then got himself a two-year stint at Akelarre, a restaurant with three Michelin stars overlooking San Sebastián, where he fell in love with the local food. Now 37, he is translating his passion for Basque food into a restaurant, named in homage to Hemingway, another Midwesterner devoted to Spain. After he left Spain, Mr. Bartlow returned to Chicago, worked at Alinea and then came to New York, where he held a number of jobs over the years, most recently at Frenchette and Quality Eats. He describes the food at Ernesto’s as a hybrid influenced by Spain, Paris and Frenchette. Still, it’s richly infused with Basque flavors and ingredients, like morcilla en croute, fried hake with roasted peppers, salt cod in a Basque pepper sauce, and rice with rabbit and snails. “I’m not Basque, but I studied there and have roots there,” he said. “I feel as though San Sebastián is my home base.” Pintxos, Basque-style tapas bites, accompany drinks. The space, with windows on two sides, brick walls on the other, is dominated by a long bar. Adjacent to it on a side street, will be a cafe, opening in a week or so, for breakfast, pastries, sandwiches and, in the evening, pintxos from the open kitchen. (Opens Jan. 8)

259 East Broadway (Montgomery Street), 646-692-8300, ernestosnyc.com.